SPOTLIGHT SERIES: Hauses of Heritage: NYFW Designers and Their Proud Diasporas

Edited by Melody Boykin

     In the 2025 spring blockbuster Sinner’s, the breakout scene resonated far beyond the screen, carried by cross-genre rhythms that embodied the sound of American history—music born from the rich cultural traditions of the African diaspora. From Africa to the West Indies to the heart of America, Black communities have not only preserved history but transformed it into living art.

     That same spirit reverberated through the runways of New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026. This season was more than a showcase—it was a cultural milestone. Beginning on September 11, 2025, designers from across the diaspora brought forward collections that blended heritage, innovation, and unapologetic creativity, captivating millions of fashion lovers, artisans, and cultural commentators around the globe.

     Here, we spotlight seven designers from NYFW who exemplified what it means to honor heritage while shaping the future of fashion.

House of Aama: Across the Diasporas

     We begin with the House of Aama, the acclaimed mother-daughter design duo whose work embodies both heritage and innovation. Rooted in silk fabrics and ancient African traditions, the brand distinguishes itself by embracing the collective history of the African diaspora. Rather than focusing on a single narrative, House of Aama illuminates the broader, storied journey of African people—drawing on historical research, archival exploration, and storytelling to create garments that feel both timeless and revelatory. Much of their aesthetic pays homage to the overlooked and forgotten histories of descendants of the Transatlantic Slave Trade.

     After a one-year hiatus, House of Aama made a powerful return to the NYFW runway at the CFDA show on Sunday, September 14, 2025, debuting their Spring/Summer 2026 collection to wide anticipation and acclaim.

Pictured: Akua Shabaka and Rebecca Henry
Via Essence
Pictured: House of Aama Saltwater NYFW 2026 show Via Vogue Magazine
Per Luca Zanoni of Gorunway

Chuks Collins: Nigeria

     If you haven’t heard of Chuks Collins yet, you will soon. The Nigerian-born designer is redefining bespoke fashion with pieces that are as culturally confident as they are consciously crafted. His brand, rooted in sustainable luxury, uses organic and recyclable materials—proving style can honor heritage and respect the planet.

     Collins’ designs tell stories. From vibrant colors and textures inspired by Africa’s natural world to heartfelt collections like Nnè, a tribute to the strong Nigerian women in his life, every piece is intentional. By blending African tradition with Western flair, Chuks Collins is creating fashion that’s not just worn, but experienced.

     Jamaican brands Diotima and Theophilio may share an island and be rooted in similar values. While Diotima and Theophilio are both Jamaican brands with shared island roots and similar core values, they articulate their Jamaican heritage distinctively.

Diotima: A Breath of Jamaica

     Founded by a Jamaican designer who sharpened her skills in Milan and Paris, Diotima brings island heritage into global fashion capitals. Her airy, hand-crocheted pieces—crafted in Jamaica—give a fresh perspective through a European frame. Linen pants with a resort vibe, breezy silhouettes, and nostalgic textures capture the free-spirited essence of Jamaican culture. In a Caribbean fashion world often closed off by exclusivity, Diotima feels like a true breath of fresh air.

Pictured: Designer: Rachel Scott
Per Kelly Taub
Pictured: NYFW Diotima SS 2026 Women’s Wear Daily
Per Diotima

Theophilio: The Roar of Brooklyn

     While Diotima whispers freedom, Theophilio shouts heritage. The Jamaican-American designer operates out of Brooklyn, infusing his work with both New York grit and the vibrancy of Jamaica. His ready-to-wear collections blaze with the colors of the Jamaican flag, moving with the rhythm of dancehall—the heartbeat of Jamaican culture. Theophilio doesn’t just rep the island, he amplifies it. Bold, urban, and unapologetic, his brand is the roar that refuses to be silenced.

Pictured: Designer Edvin Thompson at the 2025 “Black Dandyism” Met Gala
Per Dimitrios Kambouris
Pictured: Theophilio SS26
via Vogue Runway
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